Maintenance

Formal maintenaNce

Perhaps the best known and most popular formal espalier is the multi-tiered cordon, with its rows of branches, spaced evenly, growing horizontally from a central stem.

Most training for your formal espalier will occur during the warmer months when sap flow is at its peak. It is important that horizontal branches have good support and are secured in several places to the guide wire (or lattice). Leave any small stubby shoots that grow from these cordons, these are the fruiting spurs and will produce your flowers and fruit for the year. Any strong shoots that grow up from the cordons should be cut back to 3-5 centimeters tall. They may try to grow again, just keep cutting them back. Eventually they too will form the basis of the fruiting spurs. Remember to check your ties often to ensure that they are not choking or cutting into your branches.

We recommend to prune your espalier during winter (mid July – August). This is when the true form of your espalier can be admired. The central and horizontal branches should not need much attention. The fruiting spurs should be cut back to a fat bud, and the short thin sprigs to 5 centimeters long.

New arms can be formed in winter by pruning off the top of the main shoot one or two buds above where you want your new arms to form. Ideally you will get three new shoots. Two will form your next cordon and the third will grow on. Prune off any other unwanted shoots.

inFormal maintenaNce

An informal espalier generally requires less attention than a formal one. Most of the training is done during the warmer months when plant growth is most active.

When new shoots grow, wait until they are around 10-15 cm long (and not too soft to move) and then space them evenly to cover your trellis. A good way to explain this is to look at your hand. Imagine that your fingers are the new growth on your plant. Now spread your fingers apart. This is how you would train new growth onto your lattice.

Pull any strong upward growing branches down to a 45 degree angle, or even lower to horizontal or downward position. This will direct the sap flow more evenly and promote shoot formation all along the branch and not just at the tips.

When new shoots form wait until they are around 10 -15cm long and then repeat the process, position and secure. Pinching or cutting out the tips of any new growth will also slow down sap flow and promote the growth of side branches.

If your plant gets too large or branches are growing in positions that you don’t want (straight toward you away from the lattice) prune them back to the desired position.